October 7, 2012 - Vesper Peak North Face

The beautiful late summer continued to encroach upon fall in the pacific northwest. The north face of Vesper had been on the list for a while, so Nicole and I took the weekend to carry our packs into the basin below Vesper and camp, and climb in the morning. 

Our route and some beta for approach. Go up standard E. ridge scramble route and cut North at 5800'

This was my first time out on the Mountain Loop Highway, I thought, until I recognized the Lake 22 trailhead on the way by. So... new territory once we passed that! Nicole had recently been up towards Del Campo, and her report back of how nice the views were prompted Vesper being moved to #1 on the list.

The approach was straightforward. The only beta for the trail approach we had was that Headlee Pass was hidden from view until you are right up on it, and indeed it was! Only as we pulled directly up below the tightly switchbacking trail were we able to figure out exactly where this trail meant to punch through the craggy skyline above.

Nicole crossing the talus field beyond Headlee Pass

Rainier in sunset light

We made camp along the east ridge of Vesper just after the creek crossing. We lounged around in camp and made plenty of food. I had carefully planned out a star timelapse, but was stymied by my intravoltemeter running out of batteries - bummer! The stars were quite impressive none the less. 

Planning for the next day, I severly overthought the approach to the class 4 traverse that leads to the beginning of the climbing. Figuring that we needed to drop to the lake before climbing up to the correct notch, I unintentionally got us a bit off course...We climbed up a rocky face above the lake only to find a snow slope without any mark of human travel. No prints from the groups we talked to on their way out yesterday... uh oh. The snow was very low angle, but was bullet proof, and we didn't have crampons or ice axes. The run out wasn't bad, however, so we slowly worked our way up, using the suncups as steps and our poles as wanna be ice axes. Eventually we gained a notch in the ridge, but unfortunately we were one bump away from the beginning of the traverse, so we scrambled some rocks on what is likely the standard Vesper - Sperry traverse route.

Our route up in red and down in blue. Follow the blue up and traverse on the pink (5800') to avoid our poor approach!

Nicole making her way up to Vesper - Sperry col

Nicole embracing the easy approach we though we would have

Moon over rocks

Eventually we got back on track and started the traverse, which is billed as 4th class by none other than Fred Becky. Knowing this... I fully expected we'd be roping up at some point before heading upwards. I didn't think, however, to keep a keen eye out for a footpath at the first sign of difficulty, and after 20+ minutes wasted in a poor simul-traversing botch, I looked down and noted an easy footpath below us. Reverse simul and down to the path and we scrambled as far west as we could until we felt the need to rope up.

The first pitch was certainly still part of the "traverse" that some parties undertake, as I climbed up one 20' section of easy open book, then ran it out as I walked on ledges trending up and right. I stopped at one of these ledges knowing that I couldn't pass over the whole slab that lay above and to my right with the remaining rope. Built a solid anchor (this trend wouldn't continue) and brought Nicole up.

Looking back down the first pitch with Glacier Peak in the distance

The second pitch started up the unprotectable slab and aimed for a weakness in the "roof" above that lay between us and the upper North face. it was rather easy to walk some ledges up through the roof instead of doing any serious climbing, and protection was there when needed. Once up past this small roof, however, the slabby nature quickly took over again and there wasn't much pro for a while. As I neared the end of the rope length once more (thanks radios) I pulled over one more ledge and found virtually NOTHING with which to make an anchor. All smooth folds of rock with no cracks... nothing to sling. The only piece I was able to get in was a small nut, but the direction it was in wasn't all that inspiring for belaying a follower. As I searched around in the vicinity of the nut placement, I found a tiny fissure in which I was able to jam a purple Metolious #0cam into, and a secure tug seemed to reassure. However by far the best piece of this anchor was the third one - as I sat back into the slightly incut ledge, I braced my feet high on the lip and cammed myself into the rock. Three on a rope style! I slapped in a Munter and brought Nicole up, who thankfully followed with no issues, though I'm rather sure I could have held her just fine.

Looking up at the final 1.5 pitches of open book climbing. 4 star!

After Nicole came up, we both walked a bit up and left on this large ledge and set off on the final 1.5 pitches of climbing to the summit. This is what we had come for - amazing slab with a great open book crack running the whole way up. It reminded me of Diedra at Squamish. The first pitch off the ledge was a bit tricky to start and I threw in almost a third of the cams in our alpine rack in the first 4-5 moves, but after that it was cruiser and I thought very little of placing every 20'+. Eventually the rope ran out and I built an anchor conveniently enough at the next opportunity. I had actually run out of larger cams for the diehdral crack already, so used some smaller cracks in the wall off to the left.

Looking down from the last belay station

Nicole followed up and really seemed to be enjoying herself. Unfortunately the crowd that had peered down upon me as I had worked out dissipated, likely looking to casually stroll out to the cars before dark! Before I knew it I was taking the sharp end again and running all the way up to the ridge crest. The last 30' of slab was gravely overgrown with lichen and moss, so instead I climbed directly up left on some loose crap. I even took a bit of a slip, but was able to hold it before weighting any pieces. Once off the rock I had to walk up some steep annoying grass before I could build a decent anchor. I then radioed back to Nicole, through the chatter of the zipline operation who seemed to be sharing our station, that the belay was on.

Me: Nicole, belay on

Random dude: Carol is strapped in... wooeee! zip away

Random dude #2: Allright Carol, we'll see you at the bottom

Nicole: What??

She eventually got the message, and I found out later that the real holdup was trying to unjam a cam from the anchor, which thankfully she eventually got loose.

We lounged on the summit and enjoyed the late summer sunshine. New forest fires had sprung up between us and Rainier and it was interesting to see the smoke plume rise up and then get abruptly sheared off towards the northwest.

The snow was much softer and easier on the descent

We made quick time of the descent, and packed up our camp in record time before bounding down the path to Headlee Pass and out to the car. A great trip which also served as inspiration to come back to this beautiful area. Vesper is a common spring ski tour... but I think it would make a worthy winter summit as well... Vesper Glacier tour, anyone?? Circumnavigation of Big 4 Mtn?

Ascend to Hall Peak / Big Four Mtn col. Drop down through likely thickly wooded and steep slopes towards outlet of  Copper Lake. Skin to base of Vesper Glacier (name?) Climb and set up camp at notch where traverse starts for N. Ridge routes. Ski back down glacier and reclimb :) Second morning traverse over and drop overnight gear along E. Ridge and climb up Vesper and ski down to pick up gear. Then ski out via Headlee Pass and Sunrise Mine trail road to Mtn Loop Highway. Would have to be able to drive in this far on the loop highway, so not sure if this is doable in deep winter?? 

February 4, 2012 Sasse Ridge

 Sasse Ridge

Camp (blue) and Jolly (orange).

Nicole and I took advantage of the high pressure across much of WA over the weekend and headed out to the eastside to head up Sasse Ridge and hopefully climb Jolly Mtn. We drove out to Cle Elum, aka snowmobile central. Makes you appreciate the wilderness much more.

We pushed off from the end of Salmon La Sac road aiming to follow the road up Sasse Ridge, cut it when possible, and set camp up high on the ridge ready for a climb of Jolly the next day. Each time we stepped off the road to cut the gradual switchbacks someone somewhere was chuckling... we would either run into firm icy crust on top of an inch of ball bearings or would do our best to go in circles instead of cut straight up to the road.

Camp was set up at the top of a bootpack we established up a snowmobile track. The road meandered under a steep exposed slope that was getting drilled with sunlight. We choose to boot the ridge along it instead of traverse under it. Noting that we would get a free windblock and easy access to night skiing, we promptly stopped and set up camp.

Nicole booting up to camp

Shadow and Stuart

Camp

The chiefs

Evening fell as we took pictures, cooked our meal and threw all warm gear into the tent.

Nicole basking in the warm sunlight...

Tahoma sunset

Bears breast mountain

Sunset tracks. I sware this guy stalked camp.

Ripping skins we looked down the now moonlit slope that spread out before us for a good 600' vertical run. 4" of powder on top of a firm base was enough for fun turns, but nothing to float into. Careful selection was needed to keep out of the wind scouring on more east facing slopes, as the winds over this weekend were easterlies.

The moon was very bright and subdued all but the brightest of stars. We shivered ourselves to sleep, working out layers only later in the night and slept a few hours comfortably.

Full moon competed with stars all night long

In an epic fail I decided I'd just get up when the sun started to come up... a technique that I can usually pull off, but having only really fallen asleep at 1am, I slept right through what I imagine was an epic sunrise.

Framed Tahoma

We made our way along the ridgeline towards Jolly, traversing past knobs we didn't need to climb and jumping from saddle to saddle. Navigation was fun but also slowed our progress a bit. By noon we realized that we would turn the exit into a headlamp affair if we pushed on, so we grudgingly decided to ski a sweet slope below us instead. The 1200' of soft snow brought us back down to the road uphill from camp, so we skied down and then shushed our way along the road back to our bootpack and camp.

Nicole ripping it up on the slopes below camp

We threw some soggy items out on top of the tent to dry (thank you east side sun) and took our time striking camp. The way down on the road was mostly downhill, but there was enough poling to keep your upper body working just enough. The frozen snowmobile tracks made the exit a bit spicy and caution was heeded most of the way down.

A beautiful weekend in a beautiful place with a great view into the heart of the Eastern Cascades. I hadn't seen many of those peaks before, and many I'd seen only from different vantages. Time to climb a few.

January 12, 2012 - Granite Mountain

A few misfires at great weather windows had me itching for some climbing and sunrise views. Colorful sunrises on my bike ride into work is one thing, but with each beautiful morning I would have a tinge of regret that I hadn't positioned myself up in the mountains for the show. There is something special about rolling out of a sleeping bag in a remote location and watching the sun slowly light up the terrain around camp.

I finally willed myself to get out to Granite for a good weather forecast and more importantly safe avalanche conditions. I tried to coral a partner, but with my last minute decision, no one was able to join. I prefer climbing with friends - I enjoy working together, seeking out the way and importantly traveling safely with numbers. However Granite is a fairly simple undertaking, route finding is clear, cell reception is full on for the whole trip. This would be a quick up and down.

I drove up Thursday after work and started up around 8 pm. The first 1.5-2miles is on trail until the trail crosses the first large avalanche path. The summer trail actually still had foot traffic on it across the path, though this way is much longer and unnecessary when you can kick steps right up the slope. As I climbed up the snow I attempted unsuccessfully to master the skill of utilizing large easy steps that were filled in perfectly with light powder. When you found the step it was great, though you never knew when you could count on that perch. I found myself swinging hard enough to dig into the slope anyway. After a few minutes I left the footsteps and ascended more directly NW to gain the ridge on climber's left anyway. The moon came out from the clouds and illuminated the landscape in brilliant light - I switched off my headlamp and continued up.

Moon rising over Snoqualmie Pass

The route up the snowslope - illuminated by moonlight

I gained the ridge - not surprised to find it rather wind scoured on the west side, but was a little surprised that it had scoured all the way to rock in most places. Last year in March there were some rocks on the ridgeline, but this time around there was only some snow amongst the rocks. A little meandering along on the ridge allowed me to keep crampons on and walk up in the hard packed snow. Eventually the small lookout on top of the mountain got bigger and bigger. I rejoiced at climbing the last little slope underneath the tower and pulled up right under it. Climb done in about 4 hours... fairly slow, but I was laden down with overnight gear, skis, and the bike commute in my legs from that day :)

The stars were still dazzling despite the bright moon

Rolling hills leading up to white slopes... and light pollution of the south Sound

Kaleetan, Snoqualmie and Glacier peaking through

Conditions were quite good for night photography. My last climb of Granite was under a new moon, so the star trails were bright and long. This time the scenery took center stage with the small streaks giving a hint of the nighttime environment. Moonlight and reflected snow off the white slopes provided wonderful light to visualize nearby peaks. Future bivys?

Sunrise

Pre sunrise glow

First light quickly waming up the slopes

The sun quickly warmed me, though it must have been mental because the descent was on boiler plate dental work inducing snow. Small stashes of several cms of soft snow allowed a slightly quieter turn, but no improvement in skiing quality. I ran into several folks heading up and even one already heading down - must have gotten started early!