October 28, 2012 - Kendall Peak

Our route up from the PCT trailhead at Snoqualmie Pass up to Kendall Peak

The day prior I had headed up to Paradise to ski the October powder up on the Muir snowfield with some friends. Unfortunately the beautiful conditions that we had heard about had deteroriated quickly, and all we found was blowing rain and wet dense heavy snow. A few days later, a quick glance at the Paradise webcam revealed most of the snow was gone - thanks Pineapple Express! Winter will need a reboot, I guess.

The forecast for today was free of rain, thankfully, but the warm front that had moved in thwarted our desires to head up to Baker to explore skiing near Heliotrope. Not wanting a rainfree weekend day to pass uneventfully, we decided to head up to Snoqualmie Pass and hike into and scramble up the North ridge of Kendall Peak, a class 3 scramble. We had been up Commonwealth Basin previously, and Nicole had hiked the catwalk before, but we never scrambled up to the summit. I was also looking forward to scouting out some skiing lines in the area, as I'd heard of some nice couliors in the area.

We drove up through some light rain, but predicably the rain died down as we climbed up to the pass and parked at the PCT trailhead. We were stimyed in finding the climbers trail that heads directly up the Commonwealth basin, despite having using that path in the winter several times. We opted for the longer and more gradual PCT climb, with hopes of taking the climbers trail out to see where it ends and to cut off a few miles.

The hike up went fairly quickly, though I think it was longer than the 5 miles that was written up in Smoot's guide. We found the junction that we would try to take on the way back to follow the climber's trail more directly back to the cars and continued heading up until we arrived at the flat clearing below the large broad W facing bowl on Kendall's south ridge. The PCT winds its way far to the south and traverses back above some cliffs to gain the ridge above the bowl. The direct way up following the creek, however, was much shorter, so it must be quicker, right!? Somehow I was able to convince Nicole to try it. We could see about where the PCT cut across the high bowl, and it was gradual up to that point, but after tiptoeing across our fourth snow covered log with blind footsteps falling off the side of the log Nicole pulled the plug and we both made our way back to the trail and wound our way up to the ridgeline in just a few minutes.

Shoulder season scene

We took a break and had lunch at a convenient spot with views out towards Snoqualmie, Red, Lundin and the approach up towards Kendall itself. Already about 5 miles in, and unsure if we'd be able to cash in on the promise of a shorter deproach via the climber's trail, Nicole decided to head down. Assured that she was fine heading down the trail, I continued up to try and tag the peak and race down to the car. I followed the trail as it wound directly below the summit. I saw some folks just starting up nearby where the summer trail ought to be. There was about 4-6" of snow by this point, just enough to hide the rocks underneath, but not enough to properly kick steps. Shoulder season! I decided to continue on, hoping the North ridge would be in good condition, and looking foward to the class 3 moves along it. I was glad there would be footsteps down the South face, though, as I planned to take that down.

As I gained the notch N of the summit, it became apparent that there was more snow on the ridge than I had bargained for. There was plenty of rock exposed to scramble up, but in many places only one or two variations of snow free scrambling would be available, forcing you into harder rock moves than would be necessary in the dry summer. I walked around the east side and gained the ridge and climbed up for about 10 minutes before deciding this class 3 scramble wasn't in the stars for me today. I didn't much feel like climbing class 4 rock with the possibility that the only way forward or backward afterward would be class 4 downclimbing.

Back at the notch I took the trail 300' back downhill and decided to try and climb up a couloir that gained the ridge beyond the small bump I didn't want to climb. It was a scree field underneath, but the depression had accumulated more snow than the surrounding area, and snow steps were just barely possible. I climbed right up the gut where the snow was deepest and got within about 20' of the top before it started to get spicy again. The snow got shallower and the scree underneath transitioned abruptly to slab. (Curious sidenote - I wonder if this transition is important for avy danger here - the slab is right at the start zone, but we don't OFTEN get terminal slides in mid-winter, right??). 

scene of the hidden snow slab climbing

I was forced to brush off enough snow to get foot holds on the slab and after a few teasnious moves, I was able to get good handholds on the ridge crest itself and I pulled myself up. The view was not enticing. The ridge went up and down along similar terrain that I was on until the summit, still perhaps a quarter mile distant. I didn't have time to slowly work my way over along the ridge... had to descend! The initial downclimb on the slab was spicy, but once back in the gulley proper, somewhat positive plunge stepping deposited me back on the PCT.

I continued back on the trail until I saw the footsteps heading up following the summer trail. Not wanting to give up on the summit altogether, I decided to give it a go. A few minutes up I met the gentleman coming down who had put in the steps. He made it to the top, so I figured it was good to go - a quick thanks and he and his Australian shepard jetted down the trail looking to catch up to his wife. I followed the steps up (always follow the bootprints, dogs sometimes climb themselves into dead ends!!) and soon the summit was within reach. 

the last bit of ridge walking to the summit

I topped out a bit early and had to traverse the ridgeline for a few hundred feet, but it was not nearly as bad as further below on the N. ridge. I took a bunch of pictures of all the nearby peaks in their new snow cover (probably all gone now a few weeks later) and then headed down.

Red mountain, obviously.

Thomson! High on the list. Route looks snowfree here! Should have daytripped it

Sunny view from the summit

Once on the trail I stashed my camera, buttoned down the pack and ran most of the way back to the junction with the climber's trail. The PCT was perfect for this - a gradual downhill made for an easy quick jog. I took the cilmbers trail down, and took a quick left off it, hoping to get down to the creek and eventually find the log crossing we've used in the winter. I'd have to cross the creek at least once to get in the middle, however, before taking that log crossing out near the end of the trail. The trail petered out at some point and I ended up having to schwack a ways downstream before eventually crossing and finding a good path on the North side of the southern most creek (it's a maze in there). I'm sure this path connected somehow with the turnoff from the PCT further upvalley from where I schwacked. Following the trail downstream, the log crossing soon revealed itself, and I knew I was home free. Another mile or so of steeper downhill and I was back - a beautiful day in the mountains for late October!

July 7, 2012 - Little Tahoma

As a last tune-up for Rainier, Little Tahoma was on the schedule for this weekend. What better preparation for the big one than a nice glaciated approach to a fun scramble right in the same park? We left town at 5:30 on Saturday and secured permits from the ranger office in White River before hefting packs down the trail. The approach can be arduous for this climb, but the trail was in excellent shape for us - all the way to the footbridge was 99% snowfree and beautifully graded. We found our way up the snow, eventually opting to deviate from most of the bootpack to more directly traverse around to Meany Crest, where we would make camp and meet our friends (Becky, Dave and Gus) coming in later that evening. Along the way we saw a large hole in the snow and lots of big (and small!) bear footprints going in and out. A REAL BEAR DEN. cool!! KEEP MOVING FAST. We did not see any bears.

Our FIRST camp on Meany Crest

We arrived at Meany Crest at around 1pm and set up camp and relaxed. Having drug my skis up this far, I felt the need to carry them a bit higher and get some turns in. I also wanted to check out exactly where we'd need to go the next day to gain the Frying Pan glacier (above the ridge in the picture below).

Looking towards the route from camp... where's the route go?

I skiied down from camp into a bowl, and then skinned up to the head of the valley and booted up a steep slope that I figured must be the best way to access the Frying pan. It did indeed access the glacier, but once I gained the col I realized that the cash money campsites were up here, and not exactly where "Meany Crest" is written on the map... d'oh! I poked around a bit up the Frying pan glacier... which is an almost flat expanse of crackless snow. I flipped it around and skiied down the face I booted up. Probably the steepest pitch of skiing I've ever done. I ski cut the slope and the whole thing let go at 3" deep and made quite a racquet as the sluff made its way down to the bottom. The rest skiied great!

Clouds and snow

upper portion of the slope

Looking down the slope - lots of work, well worth it.

Exploring the Frying pan

Little Tahoma and Rainier in the clouds

Once I got back to camp I confirmed the girls' fears that our camps altitude was too low. After a bit of hem and haw we decided to pack camp up and head up to the campsites. I was pretty trashed at this point and I think I just barely made it up to camp with my hastily packed gear and tired legs. The campsite was epic up high, though, with commanding views of Tahoma and Rainier, and most importantly our friends!

Beautiful late evening light

Climber and Rainier

We set our alarms for 2:30, determined that this summit bid was going to be successful! I was torn throughout the night between getting sleep and going outside to take pictures of the beautiful starscapes. I made a compromise by at least snapping a few pictures of climbers making their way up Rainier while we prepared to leave camp.

Tahoma and Rainier in the early morning. You can see headlamp streaks along the DC and Emmons routes

Ladies getting ready

ready to go. I flipped my headlamp off shortly after. climbing by moonlight is excellent.

The  Frying Pan is a slightly rising glacier slog that was a perfect way to wake up. Nicole took over and lead us up to the notch with the Whitman glacier, where we ran into a little icy step that proved tricky, but easy enough to avoid crampons.

Kristen and Nicole chased uphill by dawn and the fading stars

Nicole kindly taking over for a bit to lead us up to the notch

The sun rose right as we were getting to the notch, allowing the early morning light to light up the nearby snow in beautiful hues of red and orange. Pretty close to the scene I've always wanted to shoot of early morning light on firm snow high on a mountain! Excellent.

Sunrise over the White River valley

sunrise and icy slopes

 The Whitman is a much steeper portion of the route. You still traverse a good bit to get over to the climbing, but once you do, you look up at the remaining snow climbing on route. Fortunately two climbers had started a few hours before us and put in all the steps. We caught them at the top of the Whitman, and I repaid their work by putting in steps for the last 50' up to the beginning of the scramble.

Group of two who put in 95% of the steps on the route. Looking up the Whitman

Looking down the rope... no need for crampons today!

The scramble proved a little more frustrating, mainly because Nicole, Kristen and I, who were the first up, decided to leave our axes at the beginning of the rock, not realizing that some snow slopes higher up would allow easier passage to the summit. Kristen stuck it out with help from Dave for an axe, while Nicole and I scrambled up, albeit more slowly, along the rock on the side of the snow. I threw Nicole down a belay once - it was quite fun to set up a quick alpine belay - accomplished by digging out a nice seat in the snow and bracing my feet against solid rock above me. Pretty bomber, I thought, but she never weighted it anyway.

The views form the summit were sublime. Excellent views of Rainier and the Emmons crevasses. The final scramble over to the actual summit was much more tame than had been described, and was very safe especially once Dave and Becky fixed a line across.

Cresting the summit ridge of Little Tahoma has a huge view payoff

Excellent views of Rainier and some scary looking lenticular clouds. No storm materialized, until later that evening!

Nicole scrambling over to the summit.

The exit was quite a slog in the softening snow. A few of us glissaded down the Whitman. With runouts into crevasses, I think a decision I wouldn't repeat, but it was a fast fun way down. The ladies wisely walked down roped up. We then unroped and trudged back along the tame Frying Pan and back out to the car. Ready for the big one!

July 4, 2012 - Daniel

Nicole and I celebrated the 4th by skipping out of work at 4 and driving out towards Cle Elum. After driving past the fourth snowmobile rust pile on the side of the road, you keep going on the forest road until you get your third major automobile malfunction, and then you need to cross a large creek, in your car, and drive the last 3 miles to the trailhead.

Upon arriving at the trailhead for Squaw Lake and Mt Daniel, it was a bit cloudy and the rain had just started. Weather was supposed to be clearing, but we didn't feel much like walking up just to camp out in the rain... plus the total trip is only 12 miles, so we decided to just camp in the car.

Nicole setting up camp in the car

Ice and early morning light on Squaw Lake

We strolled up the trailhead after throwing down a quick breakfast and made our way up to Squaw Lake and along the seemingly endless ridge towards Cathedral Rock. We tackled the traverse around Cathedral rock in the morning, but the existing steps allowed us to avoid putting crampons on. From the viewpoints near Peggy's Pond, the rest of the route to E. Daniel along the SE ridge was in clear view.

E. Daniel and Cathedral Rock before the traverse

Nicole with Cathedral rock behind

We slogged up snow for several hours and finally began the rock scramble to gain the saddle just below E. Daniel. We had long ago passed our turn around time to make it back to Seattle for the evening festivities, thanks to the long drive ahead of us on the forest road, but we decided to turn around just short of the East peak to get out in the light.

And good thing we did, as the routefinding proved a bit difficult on the way out... we were a bit lazy in the trees where the snow started to fade out, and the trail was pretty hard to follow. We realized that the trail we were on was leading us too far along the ridge, so we cut a descending traverse across a steep forested slope and then plunge stepped down the forest duff until we hit the main trail again. Given that it was almost evening time, we were both relieved to find the trail, and an easy walk out to the car.

Nicole happy to see Ru again

June 23, 2012 - McClellan Butte

Another June weekend, more alpine plans put on hold! This time we aimed to get out in the morning as strong storms were forecast to come in after noon and last the remainder of the weekend. McClellan Butte, along I-90 just beyond exit 38's views, had been on the list for a while, and the time of year seemed right to try for a scramble at the hopefully snow free summit block.

Views down towards I-90 and the calm half of the weather

Views towards summit and innocent looking clouds...

The trail follows a well signed and treaded track up through the forest, and we hit snow just as the trail starts to traverse south paralleling the ridge before swinging around and looping to the summit. We decided that since we totted the axes and crampons along with, we may as well make use of them and headed straight up to the ridge, which was reached pretty directly, only minor adjustments needed for rock bands or thin snow bridges.

The summit scramble proved fun, and rather short... or so we thought at first. Just as we got to the "summit" clouds blew out and the views cleared, showing the summit perhaps about 1/4 mile further along the ridge. This last section featured the most exposed, but very solid scrambling.

Final scramble and summit, in the background

Summit views in monochrome

Weather came in on que (thanks UW WRF-GFS model!) and the rain started to drop just as we got off the rock, and LOUD cracks of thunder rumbled through the mountains as we got under the cover of the thick forest. The rest of the hike was a quick jog down the trail in pouring rain.... quite the leg burner!