Thursday, January 12, 2012

January 12, 2012 - Granite Mountain

A few misfires at great weather windows had me itching for some climbing and sunrise views. Colorful sunrises on my bike ride into work is one thing, but with each beautiful morning I would have a tinge of regret that I hadn't positioned myself up in the mountains for the show. There is something special about rolling out of a sleeping bag in a remote location and watching the sun slowly light up the terrain around camp.

I finally willed myself to get out to Granite for a good weather forecast and more importantly safe avalanche conditions. I tried to coral a partner, but with my last minute decision, no one was able to join. I prefer climbing with friends - I enjoy working together, seeking out the way and importantly traveling safely with numbers. However Granite is a fairly simple undertaking, route finding is clear, cell reception is full on for the whole trip. This would be a quick up and down.

I drove up Thursday after work and started up around 8 pm. The first 1.5-2miles is on trail until the trail crosses the first large avalanche path. The summer trail actually still had foot traffic on it across the path, though this way is much longer and unnecessary when you can kick steps right up the slope. As I climbed up the snow I attempted unsuccessfully to master the skill of utilizing large easy steps that were filled in perfectly with light powder. When you found the step it was great, though you never knew when you could count on that perch. I found myself swinging hard enough to dig into the slope anyway. After a few minutes I left the footsteps and ascended more directly NW to gain the ridge on climber's left anyway. The moon came out from the clouds and illuminated the landscape in brilliant light - I switched off my headlamp and continued up.

Moon rising over Snoqualmie Pass

The route up the snowslope - illuminated by moonlight
I gained the ridge - not surprised to find it rather wind scoured on the west side, but was a little surprised that it had scoured all the way to rock in most places. Last year in March there were some rocks on the ridgeline, but this time around there was only some snow amongst the rocks. A little meandering along on the ridge allowed me to keep crampons on and walk up in the hard packed snow. Eventually the small lookout on top of the mountain got bigger and bigger. I rejoiced at climbing the last little slope underneath the tower and pulled up right under it. Climb done in about 4 hours... fairly slow, but I was laden down with overnight gear, skis, and the bike commute in my legs from that day :)

The stars were still dazzling despite the bright moon

Rolling hills leading up to white slopes... and light pollution of the south Sound

Kaleetan, Snoqualmie and Glacier peaking through
Conditions were quite good for night photography. My last climb of Granite was under a new moon, so the star trails were bright and long. This time the scenery took center stage with the small streaks giving a hint of the nighttime environment. Moonlight and reflected snow off the white slopes provided wonderful light to visualize nearby peaks. Future bivys?

Sunrise

Pre sunrise glow

First light quickly waming up the slopes
The sun quickly warmed me, though it must have been mental because the descent was on boiler plate dental work inducing snow. Small stashes of several cms of soft snow allowed a slightly quieter turn, but no improvement in skiing quality. I ran into several folks heading up and even one already heading down - must have gotten started early!

Saturday, September 24, 2011

September 24, 2011 - The Tooth

The route to the base as seen from the hiking trail turnoff
I had joined a mountaineers trip two weeks ago set up quickly to get some students enough climbs for graduation, but being rainy and generally miserable I hadn’t written it up or taken any pictures. This time around Nicole was in town and thinking that her cold might be on the way out we decided to try and get her up the climb during a break in the weather, or so we thought.
The weather was looking decent as we headed up from the trail but a light rain started as the views started to open higher up. As the weather began to clear we started along the traverse off the summer trail and over towards the climb up into Scott's Bowl. The snow bridge we had walked across without much thought two weeks prior looked a bit precarious, forcing us to walk below instead. Nicole’s lungs were really holding her back – turned out that cold was a flu, but she was a trooper and pushed on, knowing the climbing and descent would be the easy part.
Snowbridge... not so walkable anymore...
Crossing under the snow bridge and hugging the cliffs we started to climb up towards Scott’s Bowl, reaching it under mostly cloudy skies where we got passed by a quick group of two – I realized later it was Tyler Farrar - weird! The sun opened up shortly, but clouds were still thickening off to the West.
Nicole working her way up Scott's Bowl. More fun in the snow :)
The climbing was fairly straightforward and we arrived at the top fairly quickly, despite encountering a few other groups on the way up. We sat on the summit for a few minutes taking in the cloudy views that wouldn’t relent to show the nearby or faraway peaks.
Cloudy view from the summit
The descent was easy and we happily avoided the stuck ropes that had threatened to make the last climb longer. We were trying out our double ropes (which we used as twins because the route goes straight up anyway) and used them to do double rappels on the way down. Two rappels and luckily no stuck ropes and we were on our way down – hiking out in the afternoon light under a few fleeting raindrops.
Working our way down the small remaining snowfield...