Showing posts with label ski. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ski. Show all posts

Saturday, June 1, 2013

June 1 2013, Mt Shuksan


Route up Sulphide Glacier; camp at 6400'


Google Earth view of our route
Northern Picketts from Sulphide Glacier


Last year at the end of May we attempted Mt Shuksan, and were shut down due to getting up to the pyramid a bit late, and the soft snow zapping the energy from the bootpackers in the group. This year we aimed to have everyone on skis, set a higher camp, and get up there a bit earlier. 

We started on Saturday AM from the Shannon ridge TH, which was easily driveable, in contrast to last year where we added ~1 mile of road walking to our trip. There was also less snow up on the trail, as we walked up to the third switchback of the summer trail before hoofing it up the snowslopes to gain the ridge above.


Nicole and Erika heading on up through the trees

Lunchbreak under the tarp - this setup was just practice, but it was put to good use soon after!

Mt Baker hiding behind stormy clouds

Two climbers high up on the Sulphide glacier (view from ridge below notch). Climbers are on slopes above the 6400' bench.

We lucked out for a while with the weather...

...but soon ridgelines started to disappear into grey...


Nicole and Erika making their way up to the notch. Baker Lake and weather behind.

Pulling up to the notch just in time to catch a rainstorm

We huddled under the tarp to keep drive in the intense but short rainstorm that passed through. The UW model proved fairly accurate with its midafternoon system moving through and then general, slow, clearing...

cleared up enough for a rainbow


Never get sick of these peaks above the notch. Would be good alpine climbing practice to traverse them.... next year!

Traverse track from the notch around to the Sulphide Glacier

Bryan leading the way across

Nicole stomping out a skintrack

Clearing skies as we climbed the slopes up to 6400' camp

Upper route shrouded in clouds for much of the late afternoon

Camp. I love camps with views of starry skies...

Good morning Baker - you can see tracks starting from the lower left - up the Boulder glacier

Little snow peak above camp

Summit pyramid visible from camp

Sunrise provided some amazing light as we prepared to head up to the pyramid
Nicole getting ready

It looks so close, but still a few hours away!

High on the Sulphide glacier

Footsteps from prior climbs

Northern Pickets from high up on the Sulphide. Mt Challenger is the largest peak on the left - its namesake glacier shrouded by clouds from this view. Phantom Peak is the high point on the right.
amazing scenery

Mountains and clouds

Looking back down on camp (We are the two BD tents center left. NOLS group above us)


Nicole booting up the slopes above camp


Nicole climbing through the upper Sulphide

It's getting closer! The debris at the bottom of the gullys had us concerned...


Bryan taking in the views



Nicole topping on on the steep slopes above camp

Clicking back into skis for the long slightly uphill traverse to the base of the climb

Getting there

Climbers on top - jealous!

We watched them pitch out walking down the gully. They didn't appear to have much trouble, but did take their time, which was another reason we went over to the ridge around to the right.
Upon reaching the base of the pyramid, I pushed up onto the notch on the right hoping to get a view around of a scramble route to the top. It wasn't promising, as exposed rock moves with downsloping slabs and partial snow cover would make the climbing committing. We hadn't really prepared for a full on technical climb on the pyramid - just a few pieces of rock pro to back up raps if we needed to. Bryan scratched a ways up and checked out the route before pulling the plug on trying the ridge. Being that it was only 11AM, I wish we had taken a shot at going up the gully, but we were afraid that the detached rime ice that was prevalent everywhere would start raining down once the sun really started to work on the upper pyramid. Looking back now I think we would have been OK to shoot for it, and should have just taken a rope up to have a belay down for Nicole as we worked our way down. I was fairly bummed about being shut down again, but now we have an excuse to try an April Nooksak traverse trip... Baker ski area to Mt Shuksan via the White Salmon, then traverse out below the Nooksak ridge before climbing Ruth and Icy and out Hannegan Pass TH. More likely for the gully to be fatter and better for skiing then too!

We flipped it and started out ski down, enjoying lots of consolation turns on the way down. Up high the conditions were great corn, though the visibility kept us from being able to open it up too much, it was difficult enough just staying together.


Bryan about to ski the last slopes down to camp
Back at camp we ate some more food, hydrated and started the packup for the long ski and walk out. Despite the thick heavy snow below, I only wiped out once, in spectacular head over heels flip action. The tripod and random junk I had tacked onto the outside of the pack all made the flip with me, though!

And the timelapse turned out OK - was a bit cloudy in the middle of the night, and the method I was using to transition from night to day has still left some significant flickering... more practice needed there! Also think the tripod sunk into the snow as it was warmed by the sun in the morning... will need to fabricate some metal clamps to attach to the legs.... or maybe some sort of repurposed snowbaskets...



Stars over Shuksan from Erik Turner on Vimeo.

Friday, April 26, 2013

April 26, 2013 - Cave ridge bivy

Having failed to get out into the mountains in the high pressure weather that dominated the entire work week, I was motivated to get out on Friday evening to photograph the night and take in a little alpine splendor before strong systems moved in on Saturday and Sunday. Ambitious plans for Rainier and Stuart quickly faded away when weather and NWAC forecasts suggested a mellower trip. Realizing it was also a full moon, I decided to climb Snoqualmie Mtn via Cave ridge - a fairly straight forward and easy route which would allow me to climb by the moonlight and drink in views of the Snoqualmie area before the winter's coat began to melt off in earnest.

Work commitments, a slow packing job and an acrobatic cat who wanted one more run around the house kept me from leaving town too early. It was past 9pm when I finally sauntered across I-90 and headed into the woods. Last year on Grante Mountain when I went solo the feeling of walking into the trees wasn't quite so spooky, as the trailhead is already a bit removed from the highway, and you already feel like you've started your trip. This time, however, I felt very aware of my actions as I stepped through the dense guard of pine trees which were ringed by deep spring tree wells. Despite the highway noise the utter darkness and muffled sounds in thick trees led me to believe I was already in the middle of nowhere. I tracked up the PCT until I found the typical creek crossing, which would have required a 2' down climb of vertical snow, crossing a decently narrow bridge, and a 2' overhanging snow bouldering problem. I thought seriously about doing it, as the challenge would have been fun, but thankfully quick overcame the impuse and scooted along on the SE side of the creek.

Not too far up valley another mellower crossing was available, as the snowshoe herd track suggested, and I was off up Commonwealth. Up to this point I haven't not gotten lost in Commonwealth Basin, in the day light. Yet I felt I had learned my lesson and navigating in the pitch black would be possible. To be fair, light doesn't help much, because for much of the way you can't see very far anyway. I finally got a glimpse of Red, which really highlighted just how far the melt had already reach, as half the face was already bare rock. The views quickly vanished again into the trees and I made my way across the drainage and up towards Cave ridge.

Red Mtn in the darkness

My navigation was certainly not perfect, and I did enter the cave ridge drainage a bit further North than planned, which exposed me to a few steep slopes beneath cliff bands - I quickly shot down to the treed mellow slopes beneath them and cut my way further south and up the mellow treed side of the drainage. I eventually found a skintrack coming in from my left and followed it all the way up to the saddle between Guye and Cave Ridge proper. It was a remarkable experience to gaze back at Guye Peak and realize how much of a fin it really is. From the highway Guye showcases its massive SW face which leads one to believe it to be a mountain of substantial bulk, but looking down at Guye from the slopes above the saddle revealed the thin slender side I had never seen before. I entertained the thought of walking up Guye instead, as it was clearly much closer than the summit of Snoqualmie - but my original plans still enticed me up the ridge.

Guye peak and a rising full moon

The skin track had ended and I followed mellow slopes in and out of trees up towards the last climb to gain the named feature along the ridge. It was on a traverse NW across a steep slope to gain a mellower approach to the last climb that I stopped dead in my tracks and knew my plans had changed. Chair peak shone brightly, reflecting the strong full moon that had now illuminated the landscape. Other Alpental valley peaks spread out around this lofty peak. The frosting, however, was the light pollution behind the peaks reflecting from civilization off to the west. Beautiful hues of orange blended into grey cloud which blended back into dark blue with stars topping it off. I quickly got out of the immediate, though mellow, avy path, and set up the tripod.

Already worth the trip.
finishing the climb up to Cave Ridge

It was a good hour or so before I finally convinced myself to finish the climb up to Cave Ridge, where I officially ended my climb for Snoqualmie Mtn and instead took pictures until 3AM. I learned the very valuable lesson that even a tripod securely thrust into dense snow can be moved by 30mph gusts of wind. Most of my exposures came out disappointingly soft, and despite the difficulties of focusing at night, I believe the wind was the culprit. The star trails in the shots, which short, indicated that camera motion, and not soft focus, was usually to blame. It was interesting that despite the bright conditions, the only thing I could fix a focus on was the moon - not even the lit up ridgelines produced enough contrast.
Beautiful scenes




some snow still left on Red



I finally made my way to a wind shelter and a cozy place to lay down, which just meant I had to setup the tripod on top of the bivy to keep shooting towards Rainier and Silver. Soon enough, however, my creative juices slowed and my eyes got heavy. I packed up my gear and stuffed all in my pack, which quickly became my pillow. I passed out hard and didn't wake until the sky was quite bright, but thankfully the conditions were not there for good sunrise pictures, so I rolled over and caught another hour of sleep.

The ski down was straight forward once I picked my way down the horrendous trapper crust up high. Any motion resembling a turn would simply grab your skis and lock them in place, leaving the rest of your body to attempt the turn, pivoting around your knees....eeeehh yeah. I basically kick turned and stem christied my way down into the trees, where the soft snow allowed for mushy buttery turns. I followed the skintrack I found all the way out to the private ski tow area - a much better place to access objectives on this side of Commonwealth Creek - no crossing I90, and no creek crossings!







Rainier in the morning



Weather was obviously on its way in - time to head east!